With the distributor body in place, make sure the distributor plate arm is fully against the far end of the body opening. Set the steering column spark lever to the up position (full retard). (make sure you are observing the piston and not the valve).Ĥ. Remove #1 spark plug and look down the hole to make sure #1 piston at the very top of the stroke. Set the timing pin in the timing gear cover to the detent. 030 clearance between the rotor and each contact.ģ. You can carefully bend the rotor tab or file each of the body contacts to get. Check the clearance between the distributor rotor and each of the four contacts inside the distributor body. It works every time and is a way to insure that you have set the timing correctly.Ģ. When you set your timing light to 12 degrees that won’t work, and I think that is what is confusing you.Here is a procedure to set the timing. When those marks align, the timing is automatically set at 12 degrees btdc. With that type of timing light, which is the type most diy’ers have, with the engine idling you shine the timing light to align two marks the manufacturer provides, one on the crank pulley, and one that’s stationary, attached to the engine. it lights up at exactly the time the number one spark plug fires. The problem is that the instructions to check the ignition timing probably assume you only have a basic timing light, one with no advance/retard knob. I presume you have a timing light with an ‘advance/retard’ knob on it, right? That’s why you ask above if the timing light should be set to 12 degrees. And the reason is the timing light you are using. I think the problem may be that you are not checking the ignition timing correctly. A timing belt alignment just isn’t that difficult when you only have to deal with one crank pulley and one camshaft pulley. I’m guessing from what you say above you’ve already installed the timing belt correctly. And need it again to tighten the big bolt. The fact that the Honda engine turns counterclockwise means you may need a special tool to hold the big pulley in place while you unscrew, counterclockwise, the big bolt that holds it on, at major (130 foot-pounds?) torque. I am away from my Haynes and the instruction sheet that came with my timing belt kit, and able to take correction if called for. If so, tighten the tensioner pulley’s bolt to spec. ![]() IIRC from doing this a couple months ago: after installing the belt, and before tightening the tensioner pulley in place, turn the big pulley by hand counterclockwise 2 turns then check that timing marks up top and down below are still OK. You want the pull to be via that straight shot, which only happens in counterclockwise motion of the crankshaft/big pulley/harmonic balancer/timing belt toothed pulley behind the big pulley. Its left side is a straight shot from camshaft pulley down to the small pulley behind the big pulley. ![]() Look at the pictures of the timing belt in place. That’s the direction you should turn it by hand. When the engine is cranking or running, the big pulley (and crankshaft) turn counterclockwise. The fellow in the video is doing it wrong for a 1998 Honda Civic. When you watch the video, the crankshaft is being turned clockwise.
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